- Paris, Spring 2009
We left for Paris on Friday, February 27 for my final spring break (I told Eric if I ever say I want to go back to school, shoot me). We flew direct from Philadelphia to Paris on Air France, and decided to take a chance on their dinner… Eric had boeuf bourgignon and I had salmon. Neither one was especially impressive. Neither one of us slept, either, the plane was entirely too uncomfortable.
When we arrived in Paris, it was foggy and cool. After escalators up and down and moving sidewalks back and forth, we managed to go through customs and find the RER to get into Paris– it only took us one hour. Another hour of RER and dragging our suitcases through the streets, and we finally arrived at the apartment, where my sister met us. She had made us coffee, but we got right into bed to take a nap.
After our short nap, we woke up to a warm (for this time of year) and sunny day. We quickly set out, first to eat something… and then to visit what has quickly become our most-frequented spot in all of Paris– BHV.
First some history. We are staying in the family apartment, which makes a 9-day trip to Paris almost affordable. We, and all of our family members, get to stay for free. It is a large, sunny apartment with French doors that open onto balconies and courtyards. It has comfortable furniture and a fully-equipped kitchen. In the past year or so, the older generation has decided to rent the apartment out to non-family members, since we’re not here often enough and it is usually empty (you can view the apartment at www.landesparisapt.com). Unfortunately, in the span of the past month or so, it has suffered many casualties– first the washing machine, and then the dishwasher. When we arrived, the washer was full of mildewy water, sheets, and towels. It was our job to empty the washer of its contents and purchase a new washer, a matching dryer, and a dishwasher.

The emptying of a broken washing machine… Eric and Elana
Hence our stop at BHV, which is the Bazaar de l’Hotel de Ville, and the closest department store. It can really be a fun place to visit, with beautiful clothes and home goods, but we spent most of our time on the 3eme etage, looking at appliances. We made friends with Fouad, who told us our best bet was with a German machine– Siemens and Bosch, which are the same firm. We picked out reasonable machines and said we would return on Monday.
We then began our walk, around the Hotel de Ville, down by the river, people-watching and scenery-gazing. We didn’t have any real direction, but just tried to give Eric a sense of the city. Eventually we turned home and picked up some groceries on the way.
Elana had met a young American man, Kevin, on her flight to Paris from London. He was on business for two weeks in London and decided to take the weekend to see Paris for the first time. He met us for a drink at a bar, Prune, near the Bastille and then joined us for dinner.
Dinner was at a small restaurant the size of a master bathroom. We were crammed in like sardines, but the food was good and very French. We were all eager to share, and picked out three appetizers:
- Salmon with guacamole
- Foie gras with onion confit
- A cold beef “salad”( beef and marinated vegetables)
And three main courses:
- A “pate” (this was actually called something I don’t remember and didn’t recognize. Elana and I asked the waitress twice to tell us what it was, and nodded vigorously when she described it, but had no idea what we were ordering. It turned out to be almost like meatloaf, but made with pate and likely ground beef and a lot of herbs and served hot. It was a pleasant surprise.)
- A slow-cooked pork – What turned out to be a giant piece of salty, smoked bacon-type pork.
- A beef stew over noodles
We shared two small desserts, one was fromage blanc, the other a chocolate cake drizzled with honey. It was very reasonable, and we had a wonderful time eating and getting to know our new travel companion who, for being a stranger, was very eager to share all of our dishes with us and take a chance on ordering something that we had no idea what we were getting.
Later that evening, I went to place a bottle of wine in the refrigerator. It promptly fell out of the refrigerator, crashing on to the tile floor. Fortunately, it was “safety glass,” and didn’t shatter. However, two other shelves had already broken out of the fridge and this left us with only one shelf. We didn’t have much food, so this didn’t trouble me much, but it was just another item on the list of “things that don’t work” here.
That night we slept very well after a long day (or two) of travel and a big, delicious dinner. Let the eating begin!